We had an ask on how to make the pleats in the sailor skirts. I have been waiting to answer that till this weekend, and then I forgot to take pictures while I was working.
We are doing the manga look of the pleated tops with a circle on the bottom. Basically that means you are pleating the skirt when the fabric is seen in, but not actually pressing the pleats into the fabric. This method will also work for the pleated skirt look, you just need to take more time to make your pleats look even. I however, am doing the anime stripes over the colour gradient that super sailor moon has in the manga just because I do not want to have to make the trek back to Toronto to pick up more white satin should I have one drop of dye ruin everything.
1. You just need a basic skirt pattern for this, I am using my blocks I have. As long as it goes to your waist and has a waist dart it will work.
2. Trace off just the middle of the pattern (other wise known as center front and center back) then rotate your pattern piece to close the dart and trace off the eat of the pattern.
3. Then you draw your line on for the V on the front of the skirt. For the back we did at slight scoop from the waist so that we could elongate the backs too. This won’t be noticeable when you wear it :)
4. Next draw off your pleats how you want them to look when they are closed. I took my length measurements and just divided it by 3.5 because we were doing 7 pleats to a side. This is how you plan to make both the front and back pleat into the middle panels. Also I should note that like Jenn’s classical super girl skirt, the front is 8.5 inches long and the rest of the skirt is 12.
5. Trace off the first pleat, now is when you decide how big you want the insides of the pleats. I wanted all 7 to be the same size, so my front pleats insides are slightly smaller than the rest. For my first pleat a measured off 2, 1 inch sections at the top and 2, 3 inch sections at the bottom. Then you fold up those like you would a pleat and trace off the next section. Do not cut the extra paper away until you are done. When you have it all folded up its hours look like photo 7 with all kinds of extra paper on the top and bottom.
Note: wanna know how we have both the from and back pleating into a front panel? On your sides you want to do a box pleat (photo 8) on your side seams for both pieces. It even hides the seams making it look like one giant skirt.
6. Add your seam allowances to the skirt while it’s all folded up, and then tape them all in place with painter’s tape. Then cut away all the extra paper. And now you can remove the tape and reveal your pattern.
As you can see in the last photo our skirts are huge! All the crazy jagged edges on the front will pleat up nicely and make a clean V at the top. If you are being super sailor moon, once you have the skirt pattern done, then you need to go in and add in the lines on her skirt and then trace off your new three pattern pieces!
Thanks for this! I’m just about to start Sailor Neptune and this is extremely helpful!